You’re going to crave slow roasted chicken, beef, or lamb tajines on the rooftops overlooking Morocco, the fresh and perfectly seasoned roasted vegetables, and the happiness of knowing that while Calvin is blogging, he’s not eating, so there’s more to go around…

The warm, fresh bread that came out with every meal, the crisp glass bottle refreshments that felt so novel and for some reason, more delicious than fountain or plastic, and the unspoken permission the paper table “cloth” afforded you to get messy while you eat…

You’re going to crave this couscous: the meal made by our own group under the guidance of our gracious hosts, and the generous portions allowed to all.

You probably won’t crave french fries, but you’ll crave the various skewered meat pictured next to it.

You will definitely crave slow cooked tajines.

You’ll double crave this couscous skewered meat combination. At a certain point I had no idea what kind of meat I was eating, but it was so good, even if I was eating the pigeons I saw some kids outside clutching in their hands, I really wouldn’t have cared. I will crave pigeons if pigeons is what I ate. And you will too.

You already started craving the eggplant dish that comes in the Moroccan 6 dish appetizer at Cafe Souk 20 minutes after we finished eating it, so you’ll crave it again. Next time, we’ll order a 12 dish appetizer.

You’ll miss the fresh squeezed natural fruit juices; not too sweet, not too sour, but just right. And paired with smoking shisha on yet another rooftop watching the sunset to the sounds of the adhan. Yea, you’ll definitely crave it.

Is anyone even reading my captions? Or are you just looking at the food pictures?

You will crave all the food that we didn’t order on the menu because we only had 8 people to feed, and the idea of not knowing what you were gonna get or maybe what anything on the menu meant, but trusting that it would be an experience itself, whether it was delicious or not (mostly delicious, though).

You will crave this. Even though it looks like a sausage egg Mcmuffin without the egg and cheese, trust me. It’s not. And going to McDonald’s will not satiate your craving for this street vendor lamb wrapped in bread. Not by a long shot. On the other hand, there is a Moroccan food truck that I’ve been stalking in L.A, if you want to visit…

You will crave alternating biting out of the above mentioned lamb, and drinking this soup. (But you will not miss having to share it with 7 other people).

You will crave the fresh fruit (but not the ones you picked off of the tree in Spain… those were gross).

You will crave Moroccan whiskey. Even if you sipped it during an awkward lecture concerning the fate of the irresponsible future generations of Muslim youth.

Calvin will crave what was apparently the world’s most arousing ice cream.

You will crave free tapas with a drink order in Granada, and the tinted rosa. How can something so alcoholic be so delicious?

You will crave rice pudding, cheesecake, mango ice cream, and other desserts from the world’s oldest restaurant. You will definitely crave the rice pudding since I stole it and ate most of it. Sorry. ^_^;;

You will crave the slow roast pig from the world’s oldest restaurant, even though I was disappointed it didn’t come out a full pig with an apple in its mouth.

You will crave beer with Hemingway.

I don’t remember what this is but you will crave dipping bread in it.

You will crave the jamon of jamons.

I was craving this when I saw something similar at Whole Foods. I was disappointed. I will crave this, and I assume you will too.

I’m not huge on seafood so I won’t really crave this, but you will crave it. I know cause ya’ll were so into it that you guys insisted that I try some, even though seafood gives me a stomachache.

Mmm, I will crave this. This was the moment where I wished no one else was there so I could eat by myself.

But then this was the moment I was really grateful everyone was there so we could order everything off the dessert menu… ^_^;;

You will crave melted chocolate with churros, and shot glasses of different melted chocolates.

I have been craving this meal in Barcelona since the minute it ended, and not just because of the stuffed sweet peppers and “what-dreams-are-made-of” champagne, but because the combination of new friends and new food at the beginning of a new adventure is a dish like none other (zing).  Nope, sorry. I tried really hard to make this post about more than just food, but the reality is, I had a life changing experience on this trip, and it had a lot to do with cuisine.

I have an interesting relationship with food at home; its not that I’m picky about food, but I really don’t care to try new things at new restaurants because it’s mostly just expensive for the kind of taste I could guess at. Eating at a fancy schmancy restaurant and considering the “light hint” of anything or “subtle texture” of my food has never been my thing. I eat food that will nourish me, and that means I’m a meat and potatoes and bread and salad kinda girl. But hot damn.

I don’t know if I will carry this desire to try new foods back to the U.S, but this trip has definitely made me somewhat of a “foodie” (shudder). I feel like I will be that snob that goes to a “Spanish cuisine” restaurant and the person across from me will be all “I love tapas” and I’ll be all, “You’ve never had real tapas. I’ve been to Spain, I miss REAL Spanish food.” Sorry in advance.

-Go

Taken by Mahdi Kalhor – ‘Kalut’ in Lut Desert

We at The Monsoon Diaries have traveled to over 30 countries in the last 18 months, all while spending very little and keeping fulltime jobs, remaining as fulltime students, or both. We’ve been to beaten paths and off the beaten paths. We’ve survived war zones, falling trees, getting struck by lightning, top-secret Sri Lankan commando units, and clandestine North Korean government installations.

We have had over 20 travelers backpacking with us side-by-side around the world, and made hundreds of international friends that joined along for part of the adventure.

We’re the type of people that looks at a picture on Google Images, but instead of saying “this goes on my bucket list”, we say “I’m going there next month.”

We make dreams come true.

Khaju Bridge in Ishafan

So why should you come to Iran with us?

…Because this is the once-in-a-lifetime chance to do epic shit with your life.

Taken by Ali Majdfar – Lake of Taleghan Dam

If I haven’t been eloquent enough for you, then these formidable writers can be:

• 3 Reasons to Travel While You’re Young - “[Responding with] ’Yeah, but…’ is pernicious. Because it makes it sound like we have the best of intentions when really we are just too scared to do what we should. It allows us to be cowards, while sounding noble.”
• Touching the Burner - “Those that continue to experiment are rewarded with more experience. Those that think “I’m fine where I am” never do– their world stops growing, and they don’t truly understand why.”
• Life Doesn’t Start Tomorrow - “Momentum comes from pushing, not from planning. Confidence comes from scars and risk, not from indecision.”

But people read these articles all the time and say “You know what, I’ll do it!” and then forget to commit to anything 5 minutes later. So this time we’re not only going to inspire you to take a risk, we’re also going to give you the chance to put that inspiration into practice right here and right now. If you really mean it when you say “I’m gonna do it!” after reading our little ditty on “doing epic shit”, then do it. Travel with us.

Keep reading.

OK, I'M INTERESTED. WHAT'S THE SKINNY?

There are 2 options we can do:

1. THE BASIC: 7 days in the Islamic Republic of Iran (April 6th – April 14th)
2. THE EPIC:

April 6th: 1 full day in Italy (Rome)

April 7th – April 14th: 7 days in Iran (itinerary posted below)

April 14th – April 16th: 3 days in the Ukraine to see Kiev, Chernobyl (yes, the site of the worst nuclear meltdown in history  and currently a ghost town), and a tour of abandoned Soviet Union ICBM nuclear silos and missile bases from the heydey of the Cold War.

April 17th – 1 night in Italy (Rome)

April 18th – Return to USA

WHAT'S THE ITINERARY OF THE MAIN ACT (IRAN)?

You know how much I prefer free, independent travel over guided tours any day. However, the only way to legally get inside Iran as an American is on an MFA-approved tour. This one is not only that, but it still provides us a lot of freedom and the “down and dirty” for the backpacker-at-heart. This itinerary will take us to all of the major sites in Tehran as well as the ancient capitals of Shiraz, and Esfahan. In addition to the ancient history this tour also offers lots of opportunities to interact with locals, and witness the visual reality of what is the Iranian Revolution.

…and with our local guides we will be doing lots of hidden extras, not published on this itinerary, for obvious reasons.

April 4th/5th

• Leave for Iran

April 6th

• Morning and afternoon arrival by flight
• Free afternoon to walk around Tehran, get to know your group
• Visit to the heart of Old Tehran to soak up the nighttime atmosphere, drink some local tea and people watch
• Overnight in Parastoo Hotel

April 7th

• Last group arrives by flight in early morning
• Visit Tehran National Museum, home of priceless pieces of art
• Walk through streets of Tehran
• Lunch at the main Bazaar of Tehran
• Shopping in the main Bazaar of Tehran, where your guide will help you haggle should you wish to buy anything
• Take a ride on Tehran’s brand new state-of-the-art Metro Station to Khark Street
• Dinner and entertainment at the Armenian Club (Armenians are Christians, so not required to wear the hijab, or refrain from drinking…)
• Overnight at the hotel

April 8th

• Check out of hotel for morning flight to Shiraz
• Check into Shiraz Hotel for a freshenup
• Drive to Zand Complex
• Visit the gardens and mosque
• Lunch in the city
• Free walk around the ancient capital
• Dinner at Shater Abbas a traditional Iranian restaurant
• Overnight in Niayesh hotel (3 star historic hotel)

April 9th

• Morning drive to Persepolis and Necropolis
• Visit the famous UNESCO World Heritage Site
• Picnic lunch
• Drive past local military base area (but no pictures!)
• Stay at a private home for dinner
• Overnight in Yazd Orient hotel (2 star historic hotel)

April 10th

• Morning drive to Esfahan
• Visit the Royal Square, another UNESCO World Heritage Site
• Visit the beautiful Safavid Chehelsetoon Palace
• Lunch in the town
• Sheikh Lotfollah mosque and Ali-qapoo palace
• Visit the Vank Christian Cathedral
• Visit to Shah Mosque of Esfahan
• Dinner of Chelo Kebab, a local speciality
• Overnight in Yazd Orient hotel

April 11th

• Morning walk around Shahid Ashrafi Esfahani University, to speak to local and foreign students learning Persian.
• Visit an Iranian home for a cookery lesson with a local family.
• Sit down for a traditional lunch
• Free afternoon
• Evening visit to the 300 year old Abbasi Hotel hotel for traditional Iranian tea
• Night time talk from a participant in the 1979 Revolution
• Overnight in Yazd Orient hotel

April 12th

• Morning flight to Tehran
• Check into hotel
• Lunch in hotel
• Visit Golestan Complex
• Visit Tehran City Gardens for some people watching and relaxation
• Farewell dinner at Naveed, serving traditional Iranian kebabs
• Farewell drinks (well tea) at the popular evening haunt the Chai Bar
• Overnight in Parastoo Hotel

April 13th

• Free afternoon in Tehran
• For those interested, a visit to the main football stadium in the city

April 14th

• Leave Iran

Again, this is a research trip, which means a lot of things will be free and we will be directing this custom-made itinerary suited for our age range, including getting down and dirty with the locals, seeing military…In other words, simply the things we will be allowed to do will be a once in a lifetime opportunity.

WHAT'S THE TOUR COMPANY THAT'S SPONSORING THIS?

I’m helping organize this tour with the brilliant minds of U.K. and China-based Young Pioneer Tours (YPT) – this is the same tour company that got me in and out of North Korea safely – so I will vouch vociferously for their professionalism and reliability. And given that I usually avoid tours like a plague, then you know it’s legit if I speak well of YPT! Their version of our trip is up but we’re being offered a cheaper rate.

We will also have the founder of YPT coming with us as this itinerary was specifically designed by him. We’re in extremely capable hands, ladies and gentlemen.

 

HOW MUCH WILL IT COST?

Although the list price you’d find for Americans is about $1200-$1500 USD (too expensive!!!), we’ll be getting a “research trip” deal that’s significantly cheaper (think in the order of 3 digits). And the more people who come, the cheaper it gets. That being said, I have to cap this at 15 people, so don’t take too long to decide.

But those who really need a number, I guarantee it won’t go any higher than $845 USD, which is an all-inclusive price. The only thing else you have to pay for are the flights to/from Iran and daily food expenses (about $10 USD/day).

Keep in mind as more people sign up, the price will drop!

So in summary…

Price is inclusive of:

• Western Guide
• All local Iranian guides
• Entrance fees to historical sites
• All internal transport inclusive of return flights Tehran – Shiraz, and all internal buses
• Airport Transfer
• Visa support (your invitation letter)

Price exclusive of:

• International flight (there are well priced flights from most major western airports)
• Food (exclusive of breakfast), we suggest around $10USD per day as being OK.
• Personal expense
• Tips for guides (we suggest around $5 USD per day per person)

 

HOW MUCH ARE FLIGHT TICKETS?

That really depends on when you buy them. A round trip from NYC-Tehran is currently priced at around $1000-$1150 USD on Qatar Airways. I’ve flown Qatar Airways to & from India and it’s one of the world’s best airlines; it’s one of Skytrax’s five highest rated 5-star airlines in the world.

Another option is an $800-$950 Turkish Airways (great 4-star airline) flight leaving and arriving at around the same times.

 

WHAT IS THIS "THE EPIC" ITINERARY?

My mantra is that “if you’re there, why not visit it?” So I’d love to maximize my layovers in nearby Ukraine and Italy with the extra days I have:

All-inclusive $1650 USD Alitalia flight allows for: NYC-Rome flight -> Layover in Rome for 1 day -> Rome-Tehran flight -> Our week in Iran -> Tehran-Kiev flight -> Layover in Ukraine for 2 days to see Kiev, Chernobyl, and ICBM Nuclear Missile Silos-> Kiev-NYC flight

So in addition to Iran, “The Epic” will also include:

Rome

 

Kiev

 

Pripyat

 

Chernobyl

 

ICBM Launcher (aka an abandoned USSR Nuclear Missile Silo)

AREN'T YOU WORRIED ABOUT GETTING JAILED IN IRAN?

No. And here’s why:

1. The Iranian Government and their intelligence department screens all visa applications. If they were to jail someone for being a “spy” on a 6-day tour, then they’re admitting to the world that they have ineffective intelligence.
2. The foreigners who have been jailed are either people who have been conducting extensive NGO or business work for years, or hikers who wandered into the country without a visa. Never tourists.
3. The amount of money, resources, and political fallout invested in jailing young American tourists on a 1 week guided tour in Iran is not worth it to the Iranian government.
4. It simply won’t happen. American tourists on guided tours are now in Iran as we speak.

 

YOU'RE CRAZY.

So are the 22 others who’ve been around the world with me. So is anyone who doesn’t want to lie on their deathbed one day and say “I could’ve lived a little more.”

 

I'M SCARED.

As was I on my first trip 2 years ago when I found myself alone at night in a random train station in Cairo. You have to start somewhere. And I’m going to echo one of Go’s previous entries: “the way you do one thing in life is the way you do everything.” Or as some famous inventor of a pretty popular computer/music player/cell phone once said, “stay foolish.”

 

Let’s entertain the possibility that you’ll skip out on this trip. Then watch us as we come back safe and sound, share our stories, talk about how our lives have changed (which they always do when you do a trip like this) and show you all our photos. Whether or not you will realize it then, when you have your first child, when in your midlife crisis, or on your deathbed, you’re inevitably going to regret that you missed out on this epic once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. This could set the tone for the rest of your life.

Don’t let this happen. Starting slowly never works. Nobody ever learned how to ride a bike by reading about it. You have to get on the damn thing! Do you think that to skydive you first have to look it up on wikipedia, or learn to fall off a table? No. You simply jump. So those of you who want to travel, travel. 

Imagine how easy traveling will seem to you after this. How much confidence you’ll gain in yourself.

 

This could be the moment where you turn your life around and finally do some epic shit . The world won’t wait for you.

 

“Momentum comes from pushing, not from planning. Confidence comes from scars and risk, not from indecision.”

“Those that continue to experiment are rewarded with more experience. Those that think ‘I’m fine where I am” never do– their world stops growing, and they don’t truly understand why.’”

 

Feeling inspired? However, unlike most self-help sites out there, we’re going to give you the chance to test that inspiration right now. If you feel that bit of awakening stirring within you is the real deal, then drop your sh-t and travel with us. It’s the only way to know what you’re made of.

 

I AIN'T SCARED NO MORE. HOW DO I SIGN UP?

If you’re an American, you need to fill out Iranian visa forms 20 minutes ago (i.e. NOW); it takes about 2 months to approve Americans into Iran. You must fill out visa forms even if you are undecided; you don’t have to pay anything at the moment and you can always back out later. So if you want even a CHANCE of coming, please contact me asap: CONTACT ME!

If you’re not an American, you have until February 21st to figure stuff out.

And I’ll rip out what’s left of your heartstrings with a few more pictures (unless otherwise mentioned, these pictures were taken from the public domain, photographer Ali Majdfar, and an article in The Atlantic):

Taken by Ali Majdfar

Taken by Ali Majdfar

Taken by Ali Majdfar – Sunset in Persepolis

Taken by Ali Majdfar

Northwest Iran

Moonrise over Persepolis

- At time of posting in New York City, Central Park, it was 46.4 °F -

Humidity: 89% | Wind Speed: 5km/hr | Cloud Cover: few clouds

Let it be known that Gerard Butler now reads this blog, and I quote from June (left in photo):

“It was funny how he mentioned he had read The Monsoon Diaries, because he kept saying how he usually doesn’t look into these things that mention him. I also mentioned your North Korea trip to him, and he seemed interested [in following up]. Maybe you’ll have another famous follower? He also complimented you…something along the lines of you seem to be very confident.”

Melissa (right in photo):

“Gerard said that you’re very charismatic.”

So the Spartan King from 300 who took on Xerxes and his one million Persian soldiers with a battalion of 300 Spartans, just complimented me on my confidence and charisma…I think I might work up some of both to make a visit to Scotland and ask him to monsoon with me. Perhaps Gerard could be the next travel partner on my 2nd trip to North Korea?

The full account, through June’s words:

“I thought saying good bye to Marrakesh, Morocco, was when my noteworthy adventure would end. Stepping out of the taxi and taking in the beautiful entrance of the Menara Airport in Marrakesh, I was preparing for the long flights ahead. No more breathtaking sites, no more freedom to stroll around winding streets, and no more interacting with locals. After a long arduous wait for our boarding passes, Melissa and I finally made it to our gate. As we were waiting we noticed a familiar face trying to board our flight. It was Gerard Butler! I looked to Melissa for confirmation as I stared at her in disbelief. It was amazing enough that the first time we ran into him was just a couple of days earlier, but this was unreal.

We struggled to muster up the courage to talk to Gerard and to make sure we don’t make a spectacle. I debated within myself if it would have been an intrusion of his privacy, but reasoned that if it were any other person I had happened to met earlier, I would have said hi again at the very least. I turned to say hi. It was possibly one of the most awkward greetings I have ever done, but at least I was able to mention how I thought it was such a coincidence that we ran into each other again. After the awkward start of the conversation, he was kind enough to mention that he had remembered our group, particularly because of the post on The Monsoon Diaries. He divulged the fact that he indeed did manage to look at that entry personally. His manager had done the search and shared the link to him. Gerard mentioned that he usually doesn’t look into these things, but he had scrolled through that entry and had seen the activities our group was doing such as cooking and site-seeing. It is difficult to imagine a busy man like him taking time to do that, but I was glad to hear that he was impressed by it.

We chatted with Gerard until we were the last people to board our flight. He was kind enough to even talk to others who had approached him.  As we were about to board the plane, Melissa and I asked if we could take another photo to document this coincidence. And voila. I was glad that we had the time to chat. To Gerard, good luck with your premier for Coriolanus and hope your endeavors with surfing remain accident free! 

The next part of the never-ending trip: the flight from Marrakesh to Madrid was delayed by about 40 minutes, which caused Melissa and me to miss our connecting flight to JFK. As an inexperienced flyer, I worried about missing the flight. Were we going to be stranded? Did I need to buy another plane ticket? Thankfully, other passengers aboard reassured me that the flight company would arrange a hotel for me to stay in overnight to catch the next flight out without any cost. As we landed, Melissa and I had parted ways. I had to go to the customer service desk to get my other boarding pass as well as figure out what my options to get home were. The wait was over one hour long, but the service to get me a place to stay and food to eat was quick. I was a bit worried that my lack of the Spanish language would get me lost, but many of the people I stopped for help were able to show me the way despite the language barrier.”

And so I spent the night in my own room in a nice hotel before having to go home for no additional cost. Privacy at last. Not a bad way to spend my last night abroad.

-June- At time of posting in New York City, Central Park, it was 28.4 °F -

Humidity: 44% | Wind Speed: 10km/hr | Cloud Cover: broken clouds

You’re going to miss the freedom of wandering, the days that begun with nothing to expect, the trust in what’s around the corner, the feeling of wanderlust, the time when you were free to do anything that you wanted.

You’re going to miss rambling about the traffic-free streets of Las Ramblas, the unexpected good company of native Barcelonians, eating the jamóns of jamóns.

You’re going to miss scrambling for food at the market, the taste of sharing, the company of a new kind of family on Christmas Day.

You’re going to miss the endless series of plazas, the breakdancing lesson by sunset, the illusion of pregaming with Hemingway, the dinner at the oldest restaurant in the world.

You’re going to miss the thrill of making it to an overnight bus, meeting new friends who were willing to meet you at 6am in the morning, discovering entire neighborhoods to yourself in the middle of the night, the taste of melted chocolate con churros for breakfast.

You’re going to miss the lazy exploration of a long lost Arabian castle, the long climb up a neverending hill, the subsequent views that were worth every calorie burnt, the free tapas with every vino tinto.

You’re going to miss listening to the epic stories of La Mezquita with your backpacks on, the slow cooked pork shoulder, the mere 5 hours we spent in a hostel when we arrived after everyone else was asleep and left before everyone was awake.

You’re going to miss the fresh city feel of Sevillan streets, the games of vacation! with new friends who shared a love for internet meme references, the comparisons of Alhambra to Sevilla Cathedral, the lazy gardens and labyrinths of Alcázar, the realization of seeing a live flamenco show at its very origin.

You’re going to miss the hills of Andalucía, the easy entrance into Gibraltar, the feeling of walking through an entire country in 30 minutes, the monkeys trying to steal your bags, the overwhelming immensity of seeing 2 bodies of water at the same time, the breathlessness of being high in the sky.

You’re going to miss ferrying over into another continent, the sunsets over a country you’re saying goodbye to, the arrival into a strange new land, the fear of finding something that wasn’t on the map.

You’re going to miss the inevitable feeling of missing a train, the overnight in a city no tourists ever visit, the train station café that has no idea why you’re there, the relief of getting back on the right train.

You’re going to miss the taste of your first Moroccan whiskey, the lecture on Islam from a stranger you just met, the winding alleyways of the largest medina in the world, the cheaply delicious food stalls, the 4 hours lazy shisha session in a hidden café, the rooftop dinner while listening to the adhan, the argument over money, the epic bromancing over coma-inducing ice cream.

You’re going to miss the overnight train into Marrakech, the street theater of Djemaa El Fna, the inevitable comparisons of souks, the New Year’s Eve celebrations that worked out in the end.

You’re going to miss the haggling over taxi fares, the endless rounds of tasty tagines, smoking shisha over the adhan, the off-the-bone lamb, and running into Gerard Butler not once…

…but twice:

You’re going to miss most of all, each other; the company of different personalities searching for different things, doing epic shit, and yet still united by an inexplicable curiosity of wanderlust. You’ll look back and ask yourself: “how the hell did we do that?”

You’re going to miss it long after when we say goodbye…

…because I already was missing it when we said hello.

 - At time of posting in NYC, it was 12.2 °F -

Humidity: 62% | Wind Speed: 8km/hr | Cloud Cover: clear

…while I dream of desserts from my last hour in Marrakech:

We awake from these dreams, while we wait for the sun while overlooking Lisboa, the city of 7 hills:

We also notice the low-lying clouds of Portugal…

…and the Cristo Rei arising above, facing Lisboa.

And then the Sun came:

Got one!

The rest of Lisbon at sunrise (these views are courtesy of our overnight stay at Lisbon’s TheHOUSE, which is probably the best and most personable boutique B&B’s I have ever stayed at out of over 40 countries I’ve been to)

Panorama of Lisbon

Breakfast on the terrace!

For the rest of the day we decided to take the “Tram 28″ of Lisbon, which is an old vintage tram that conveniently takes you to all the main historic neighborhoods of Lisbon starting from the city center and up through the narrow maze of streets towards St. George Castle. The whole ride costs about 2.85 euros and takes around 30-45min depending on traffic (i.e. parked cars blocking your way).

I highly recommend that you read up on what you’re about to see BEFORE you get on the tram. Because I was so unprepared (hey we only had 12 hours here!), I didn’t know which neighborhoods where a big deal until looking them up afterwards. I would have gotten a lot more out of that 45min tram ride if I had known what was outside my window.

Well, at least it was pretty.

Tram 28!

Inside the tram

By the time we got off the tram, Go was having a horrible coughing fit. I whipped out a flashlight and looked down her throat, putting my feeble 2nd-year-med-student skills to the test. Determining inflammation and possible infection, we ended up heading to the local pharmacy to grab some antibiotics, which despite our not having foreign health insurance on hand, cost a measely 7 euros for something that worked pretty fast:

Trust me, her face says: "it tastes SO bad, but it’s working SO well."

We then ended our trip with a few more obligatory sightseeing at the last minute and headed back to the airport.

And unceremoniously, we accepted the inevitable fact that the trip was about to end. And here I am, back in NYC, not sure what to make of the last 11 days.

- At time of posting in New York City, Central Park, it was 21.2 °F -

Humidity: 39% | Wind Speed: 7km/hr | Cloud Cover: n/a