Although I won’t be coming along this time — maybe that’ll be a perk? (jerks!) — this is your chance to relive what I saw in Iran last month via our blog; let me know you’re interested and we’ll set it up for you. You know that I came back safe and sound, so you know this thing is legit. And you know this thing is epic.

That said, a reposting of “Why You Should Go to Iran”, but this time updated for this October:

Taken by Mahdi Kalhor – ‘Kalut’ in Lut Desert

We at The Monsoon Diaries have traveled to over 30 countries in the last 18 months, all while spending very little and keeping fulltime jobs, remaining as fulltime students, or both. We’ve been to beaten paths and off the beaten paths. We’ve survived war zones, falling trees, getting struck by lightning, top-secret Sri Lankan commando units, and clandestine North Korean government installations.

We have had over 20 travelers backpacking with us side-by-side around the world, and made hundreds of international friends that joined along for part of the adventure.

We’re the type of people that looks at a picture on Google Images, but instead of saying “this goes on my bucket list”, we say “I’m going there next month.”

We make dreams come true.

Khaju Bridge in Ishafan

So why should you come to Iran with us?

…Because this is the once-in-a-lifetime chance to do epic shit with your life.

Taken by Ali Majdfar – Lake of Taleghan Dam

If I haven’t been eloquent enough for you, then these formidable writers can be:

• 3 Reasons to Travel While You’re Young - “[Responding with] ’Yeah, but…’ is pernicious. Because it makes it sound like we have the best of intentions when really we are just too scared to do what we should. It allows us to be cowards, while sounding noble.”
• Touching the Burner - “Those that continue to experiment are rewarded with more experience. Those that think “I’m fine where I am” never do– their world stops growing, and they don’t truly understand why.”
• Life Doesn’t Start Tomorrow - “Momentum comes from pushing, not from planning. Confidence comes from scars and risk, not from indecision.”

But people read these articles all the time and say “You know what, I’ll do it!” and then forget to commit to anything 5 minutes later. So this time we’re not only going to inspire you to take a risk, we’re also going to give you the chance to put that inspiration into practice right here and right now. If you really mean it when you say “I’m gonna do it!” after reading our little ditty on “doing epic shit”, then do it. Travel with us.

Keep reading.

OK, I'M INTERESTED. WHAT'S THE ITINERARY?

You know how much I prefer free, independent travel over guided tours any day. However, the only way to legally get inside Iran as an American is on an MFA-approved tour. This one is not only that, but it still provides us a lot of freedom and the “down and dirty” for the backpacker-at-heart. This itinerary will take us to all of the major sites in Tehran as well as the ancient capitals of Shiraz, and Esfahan. In addition to the ancient history this tour also offers lots of opportunities to interact with locals, and witness the visual reality of what is the Iranian Revolution.

…and with our local guides we will be doing lots of hidden extras, not published on this itinerary, for obvious reasons.

Deadline to get in your passport information (US/British Nationals): September 15th

Deadline to get in your passport information (All other passports): September 22nd

October 22nd (Mon). Tehran

• Morning and afternoon arrival by flight
• Free afternoon to walk around Tehran, get to know your group
• Visit to the heart of Old Tehran to soak up he nighttime atmosphere, drink some local tea and people watch
• Overnight in Parastoo Hotel (2 Star)

23rd (Tues) .Tehran

• Visit Saad Abad & Niavaran palaces, the last Palaces of the last Shah of Iran
• Lunch at Darband hills
• Shopping in the Tajrish Bazaar of Tehran, your guide will you haggle, should you wish to buy anything
• Traditional Iranian dinner of kebabs at famous restaurant Naveed
• Overnight in Parastoo Hotel

24th (Wed). Tehran /Shiraz

• Check out of hotel for morning flight to Shiraz
• Check into Shiraz Hotel for a freshen-up
• Drive to Zand Complex
• Visit the gardens and mosque
• Lunch in the city
• Free walk around the ancient capital
• Dinner at Shater Abbas a traditional Iranian restaurant
• Overnight in Niayesh hotel (3 star historic hotel)

25th (Thur). Shiraz – Yazd

• Morning drive to Persepolis and Necropolis
• Visit the world heritage site
• Picnic lunch
• Drive past local military base area, but no pictures
• Private home for dinner
• Overnight in Oasis hotel (2 star historic hotel)

26th (Fri). Shiraz-Esfahan

• Morning drive to Esfahan
• Visit the Royal Square, another world heritage site
• Visit the beautiful Safavid Chehelsetoon Palace
• Lunch in the town
• Sheikh Lotfollah mosque and Ali-qapoo palace.
• Visit the Vank Christian Cathedral
• Visit to Shah Mosque of Esfahan
• Dinner of Chelo Kebab, a local speciality
• Overnight at Dibai House (2 star)

27th (Sat). Esfahan

• Morning walk around Shahid Ashrafi Esfahani University, to speak to local and foreign students learning Persian.
• Visit an Iranian home for a cookery lesson with a local family.
• Sit down for a traditional lunch
• Free afternoon
• Evening visit to the 300 year old Abbasi Hotel hotel for traditional Iranian tea
• Night time talk from a participant in the 1979 Revolution
• Overnight at Dibai House (2 Star)

28th (Sun). Esfahan-Tehran

•  Morning flight to Tehran
• Check in to hotel
• Lunch in hotel
• Visit Mausoleum of Ayatollah Khomeini
• Visit the Revolutionary Martyrs Cementary
• Drive through Tehran past ant-US propaganda and the US embassy (no photos)
• Farewell meal at the Armenian Club. Armenians the main ethnic Christian minority in Iran.
• Overnight in Parastoo Hotel

29th (Mon). Tehran

• Free morning to do last minute shopping
• Departure by flight

WHAT'S THE TOUR COMPANY THAT'S SPONSORING THIS?

I’m helping organize this tour with the brilliant minds of U.K. and China-based Young Pioneer Tours (YPT) – this is the same tour company that got me in and out of North Korea safely and that got me in and out of Iran safely. – so I will vouch vociferously for their professionalism and reliability. And given that I usually avoid tours like a plague, then you know it’s legit if I speak well of YPT! We’re in extremely capable hands, ladies and gentlemen.

 

HOW MUCH WILL IT COST?

Although the list price you’d find for Americans is usually over $1000 USD for a week, we’ll be getting a “Monsoon Diaries” deal that’s significantly cheaper at $695 a person. And the more people who come, the cheaper it gets. That being said, I have to cap this at 15 people, so don’t take too long to decide.

The only thing else you have to pay for during the trip are the flights to/from Iran, daily food expenses (about $10 USD/day), and souvenirs.

In summary…

Price includes:

• Visa (invitation letter)
• 7Nights Accommodation in mentioned hotel on TWIN sharing basis B/B
• A/C comfortable coach with professional driver throughout trip
• Iranian and Western English Speaking Guides
• Entrance fees for all mentioned monuments
• Portage at hotels and airport
• Tehran/Shiraz domestic flights

 

Price does not include:

• Fee for issuing Visa ( at Iran embassy)
• International air tickets
• Tip of the guide and driver (we suggest about 5 Euro per day)
• Any personal expenses & services not included in the above itinerary
• Meals (around 7 Euro per day)

 

HOW MUCH ARE FLIGHT TICKETS?

That really depends on when you buy them. A round trip from NYC-Tehran is currently priced at around $1000-$1150 USD on Qatar Airways. I’ve flown Qatar Airways to & from India and it’s one of the world’s best airlines; it’s one of Skytrax’s five highest rated 5-star airlines in the world.

Another option is an $800-$950 Turkish Airways (great 4-star airline) flight leaving and arriving at around the same times.

  

 

AREN'T YOU WORRIED ABOUT GETTING JAILED IN IRAN?

No. And here’s why:

1. The Iranian Government and their intelligence department screens all visa applications. If they were to jail someone for being a “spy” on a 6-day tour, then they’re admitting to the world that they have ineffective intelligence.
2. The foreigners who have been jailed are either people who have been conducting extensive NGO or business work for years, or hikers who wandered into the country without a visa. Never tourists.
3. The amount of money, resources, and political fallout invested in jailing young American tourists on a 1 week guided tour in Iran is not worth it to the Iranian government.
4. It simply won’t happen. American tourists on guided tours are now in Iran as we speak.
5. I was just there.

 

YOU'RE CRAZY.

So are the 22 others who’ve been around the world with me. So is anyone who doesn’t want to lie on their deathbed one day and say “I could’ve lived a little more.”

 

I'M SCARED.

As was I on my first trip 2 years ago when I found myself alone at night in a random train station in Cairo. You have to start somewhere. And I’m going to echo one of Go’s previous entries: “the way you do one thing in life is the way you do everything.” Or as some famous inventor of a pretty popular computer/music player/cell phone once said, “stay foolish.”

 

Let’s entertain the possibility that you’ll skip out on this trip. Then watch us as we come back safe and sound, share our stories, talk about how our lives have changed (which they always do when you do a trip like this) and show you all our photos. Whether or not you will realize it then, when you have your first child, when in your midlife crisis, or on your deathbed, you’re inevitably going to regret that you missed out on this epic once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. This could set the tone for the rest of your life.

Don’t let this happen. Starting slowly never works. Nobody ever learned how to ride a bike by reading about it. You have to get on the damn thing! Do you think that to skydive you first have to look it up on wikipedia, or learn to fall off a table? No. You simply jump. So those of you who want to travel, travel. 

Imagine how easy traveling will seem to you after this. How much confidence you’ll gain in yourself.

 

This could be the moment where you turn your life around and finally do some epic shit . The world won’t wait for you.

 

“Momentum comes from pushing, not from planning. Confidence comes from scars and risk, not from indecision.”

“Those that continue to experiment are rewarded with more experience. Those that think ‘I’m fine where I am” never do– their world stops growing, and they don’t truly understand why.’”

 

Feeling inspired? However, unlike most self-help sites out there, we’re going to give you the chance to test that inspiration right now. If you feel that bit of awakening stirring within you is the real deal, then drop your sh-t and travel with us. It’s the only way to know what you’re made of.

 

I AIN'T SCARED NO MORE. HOW DO I SIGN UP?

If you’re an American, you need to fill out Iranian visa forms 20 minutes ago (i.e. NOW); it takes about 2 months to approve Americans into Iran. You must fill out visa forms even if you are undecided; you don’t have to pay anything at the moment and you can always back out later. So if you want even a CHANCE of coming, please contact me asap: CONTACT ME!

If you’re not an American, you have until February 21st to figure stuff out.

And I’ll rip out what’s left of your heartstrings with pictures of food from my last trip, or few more pictures (unless otherwise mentioned, these pictures were taken from the public domain, photographer Ali Majdfar, and an article in The Atlantic).

 

Taken by Ali Majdfar

Taken by Ali Majdfar

Taken by Ali Majdfar – Sunset in Persepolis

Taken by Ali Majdfar

Northwest Iran

Moonrise over Persepolis

Sometimes we at The Monsoon Diaries surprise even ourselves with some unplanned, last minute trips. Until approximately 48 hours ago, I had no idea would be in Hawaii. And here I am in Honolulu for 4 days.

To give this context: I just completed my second year of medical school. Sometimes there’s just no other way to celebrate.

6:30am flight from Newark

A Korean temple that went slightly over Hawaii’s building code height restrictions…so they had to chop a little off the top

The view outside my room

I started off my day by visiting the famous Dole Plantation.

The Dole Plantation just got served

Don’t leave without trying their famous pineapple soft-serve:

A work of art

Anticipation

Mmm.

Afterwards we drove north to snorkel along Three Tables, a beach along North Shore (the northern part of Oahu island):

Maybe you’ll come across a sea turtle, or maybe even a seal?

"Look, a seal!"

So I spent the entire day with Hawaii’s 2 most beautiful and their friend Jordan Segundo from American Idol. What else is new?

I’m not going to write too much more because, uhm, there isn’t much else to write about. This has been my hard-earned vacation from medical school. I hope you understand.

In the meantime, enjoy the pictures. Wish you were here (not really).

- At time of posting in Honolulu, Honolulu International Airport, it was 78.8 °F -

Humidity: 48% | Wind Speed: 13km/hr | Cloud Cover: few clouds

You’ll miss learning how to eat this for the very first time, patting yourself on the back for believing that you’ve just became so cultured.

By Jade Shyu

Step #1: Strain the soup from the jug into the bowl

Step #2: Rip pita bread pieces and place them into soup

Step #3: Eat your creation with a spoon until it’s gone

Step #4: Mash up the lamb and bean with the pestle

Step #5: Pour lamb-bean paste into the soup bowl

Step #6: Dip pita bread into the paste. Eat until satisfied.

Still craving?

You’re going to crave Faloodeh, the 2400 year old and still sweet as ambrosia Persian Rose Water Ice.

You definitely won’t crave Iranian airplane food, which was almost as uninspired as what you’ll find on a United Airlines flight (at least Iran’s was complimentary!).

But you will crave Iran Airport’s cups of buttered “crack” corn, which was so nice we ordered it twice.

You’ll crave the thali-style presentation of Iranian’s take on platters and Western style pizza (but you won’t miss how it tasted; Iranians can’t do pizza like Italians or New Yorkers).

You will not only crave, but you’ll also salivate and dream about Shashlik: lamb marinated overnight in a high-acidity marinade vinegar and dry wine with the addition of herbs and spices. But all of those words seem like “bla bla bla” when you put one of these in your mouth.

Don’t be surprised if you’re still craving Shashlik so bad that you’ll suck on them like lollipops afterwards.

You’ll crave the slow-cooked, tender, falling-off-the-bone juicy slabs of camel meat.

You’ll crave this thick, tart duck stew made from pomegranate juice and ground walnuts called Fesenjan…and trust me it tasted better than it looked.

You’ll crave the granddaddy “holy shit” moment when you taste your first ever morsel of Khoresht-e-mast. You’ll also crave the following “WTF” moment when you find out that this sweet, delicious, saffron flavored dessert is made with not only yogurt, saffron, sugar and orange peels, but also finely ground pieces of lamb.

. . . Lamb?! But you won’t care too much because you’ll still eat it like a demigod’s version of Pinkberry.

You’ll crave the Esfahan “special meatballs” which has so much stuff in it, you won’t care what you’re putting in your mouth anymore.

You’ll crave washing down everything you just ate with the sweet kiss of rose water.

You’ll crave your first genuine kabab for which Iran is famous.

But I’m not sure if you’ll crave the fact that you’ll be having kabab almost every meal of the day, 3-4 times a day, 7 days a week, whether it’s kabab koobideh, kabab barg, kabab mkhsoos, joojeh kabab, kabab bakhtiari . . . but hey, this sounds like I’m whining about a first world problem so I’m just going to shut up.

Finally, you’ll crave your last night in Tehran, where a bunch of newly made friends feed you something so good you forget to ask what was in it in the first place.

Evan “The Interpreter” Jones just told me what I ate was Ash-e Reshteh: Persian spinach legume noodle soup. Sounds good to me.

I had said in a previous entry how “normal” everything seemed when I was in Iran last week, but about a week since I’ve returned I’ve noted some exceptions. Of course, some of these are via word of mouth through our interpreter, but this is the closest I’m ever going to get short of actually living in country or getting arrested myself.

Here’s a partial list of what we’ve learned:

#1) Alcohol: Officially banned in the country. So we went ahead (thanks to some mutual friends and connections some people in our group made) and tried to see how far we could go:

Mission accomplished?

I’d say so.

#2) Loiterting: They don’t want Americans wandering around alone in their country, especially at night. So we tried it out in Shiraz:

Sneaking around like ninjas

It didn’t last very long:

Getting caught

Questioned

So we got taken in “for our own safety” and was escorted back to our hotel.

#3) Sexuality: I wasn’t sure if this was overblown by our Western media but it’s true: Homosexuality is illegal and punishable by death in the country. According to our interpreter, it depends whether you’re caught in the act “on top or on the bottom.” If “on the bottom,” there is no punishment. But if you’re “on top” and it’s your first offense, you will get fined and lashes. However, a repeat offense will result in the death penalty.

Therefore, our Iranian interpreter who had been painstakingly trying to portray Iran in a more liberal and positive light the entire trip, still acknowledges that homosexuality is still considered a serious offense in Iran. When I asked about gay couples in general, our interpreter responded: “They don’t exist.”  This reminded me of the famous quote by President Ahmadinejad when I saw him speak at my alma mater (Columbia!) in 2007:

“In Iran, we dont have homosexuals like in your country. We don’t have that in our country. In Iran, we do not have this phenomenon. I don’t know who’s told you we have it.” – 09/24/2007

And lesbians also “don’t exist” according to our interpreter. So no mythbusting there. I can’t make this stuff up.

#4) Adultery: In cases of adultery 4 witnesses are required to observe the sexual act in order to have enough to prosecute someone, which has proven to be nearly impossible. The death penalty is only reserved for cases when the husband is murdered.

If the wife is implicated for adultery, everyone is punished including the sad, dejected husband. The wife gets 100 lashes and the husband is forced to pay a hefty fine for “not satisfying his wife enough to keep her from being adulterous.” The paramour also gets fined, supposedly. When I asked what happens if the husband was the adulterer, the reply was “same thing. Lashes and a fine.”

There is also something called  ”temporary marriages” that a husband can legally have with multiple women before he actually decides to settle down with one person.

#5) Interracial Dating/Marriage (of course I would ask about this): No big deal; noth males and females are allowed to do it. But if they are to live in Iran, both have to be Muslim or at least convert to Islam. If the newlyweds decide to live outside of Iran, it’s not enforced.

#6) Public Displays of Affection: They told us on day 1 that nobody does it or should do it, especially in the more rural, conservative pockets of the country. However, I’ve seen a fair share of romantic hand holding in Tehran, Shiraz and Esfahan. And I found myself surprised when I got to kiss/hug some of the new friends we made during our last night in Tehran.

#7) The Hijab: Wearing the hijab as a female is enforced in public places, but not as much in wealthier neighborhoods or in establishments where young people hang out. If your hijab falls and you show your hair, you are gently reminded to put it back on. Some of our friends had their hijab fall down and nobody around us said anything except some disgruntled taxi drivers.

#8) Stoning: It does exist: The accused is buried waist deep in the ground and then stoned by passer-bys. The execution is public.

However, if the accused is able to remove him/herself from the ground (I guess by sheer brute strength), the stoning must stop and the accused must be forgiven. When I heard this part, I got a little confused. I asked about it but got an even more confusing reply that I can’t reproduce here. Not much more on that.

#9) Hanging: Yes, hanging still exists as a form of death penalty here. Some of them are still public.

#10) Public Executions: See above. This was also admitted by our interpreter as something that occurs in his country; he’s seen a few while growing up.

#11) Anti-Americanism:  Except for some Revolutionary Guard posters, Anti-American sentiment is almost nonexistent among the common populace. The Iranians we met very much respect Americans, especially those who are willing and open-minded enough to visit Iran.

The Iranian youth also are intensely interested in identifying with our pop culture and they subscribe to the way we dress (denim is everywhere!). Many Iranian youngin’s either want to go to America to party, or already have been to America and have come back with positive impressions.

Photo Credit: Gai Olivares

They only issue they have is with our government, but ever since the Iranian riots of 2009, there also has been a growing disillusionment among younger generations with their own government. Time will tell how long this sentiment will last.

Although anti-American sentiment is very low, anti-American propaganda has been a profitable tacky tourist attraction:

45 rial stamps memorializing Iran Air Flight 655 that was shot down by American USS Vincennes in 1988 when it was mistaken for an Iran F-14 fighter jet

Anti CIA stamps

Pro-Malcom X stamps

Wonder what the U.S. Customs would’ve thought if they saw these.

- At time of posting in New York City, Central Park, it was 50 °F -

Humidity: 96% | Wind Speed: 9km/hr | Cloud Cover: overcast

After 5 hours in Frankfurt, we landed in Geneva, Switzerland where we had a whopping 20 hours to kill. Our options were:

1. Stay in Geneva, meet a friend, and rest up before heading back home
2. Head to Berne, meet a friend, and rest up before heading back home
3. Stay in Geneva, meet a friend, head to Berne, meet another friend, and pretty much pull an all-nighter before heading back to Geneva to head back home.

In true Monsooning style, we opted for #3: Go hard or go home, (or more appropriately, go hard and then go home). No matter how tired, underslept, or insomniac we were, we were going to do it all. It’s not everyday you get 20 hours in Switzerland as an included free layover.

So this is what we did.

5:30PM: We land in Geneva, Switzerland

5:50PM: We drop off our bags in airport lockers and buy our tickets

6:20PM: We take the commuter train from the airport to Switzerland (15 minutes)

6:45PM: We get lost looking for a Tram heading to Rive. It starts to rain.

7:00PM: We find a Tram heading to Rive. It starts to rain harder.

7:15PM: At Rive, we run into my friend from college, Natasha. Because we were poorly underdressed for the rain, she took us into her car and drove us up to her home to meet her grandparents. And that wasn’t serendipitous enough, I find out right then and there that Natasha and her family are from Iran; more specifically, her grandfather is from Esfahan. While in the car, Natasha and I both glared at each other.

A big WTF moment right here.

The view from Natasha’s home

We meet her family

7:45PM: We arrive at Natasha’s home and meet her grandparents. From there, magical moments started to happen; we exchanged photos and stories of our time there. We learned that Natasha’s grandfather was expelled from Iran shortly after the 1979 Revolution, most of it due to his Jewish roots. To this day he has been unable to return. Hearing that we had just visited his hometown of Esfahan greatly moved him, as it in turn we were deeply touched how he took us in as his own family.

Photo Credit: Cynthia Koo

Natasha’s grandfather is kind of a big deal

Natasha and her grandparents

He bestowed upon us flowers before we left

9:15PM: We say our goodbyes

Geneva at night

10:11PM: We hop on the train heading from Geneva to Berne ($52 USD a person!)

10:15PM: We pass out on the train

11:56PM: We arrive in Berne

12:00AM: There we met with Caty, whom I had met for only a mere couple of minutes when I was in Sevilla 3 months ago. Like how Ines was from meeting briefly in India to showing us around her home in Spain, Caty would be more than just a stranger on my trip to Spain, but my host and guide when I arrived out of the blue in her home in Switzerland. Such is fate. Such is the reason why I move.

The Swiss House of Parliaments just got served

12:45AM: After a few bathroom breaks, purchasing our return train tickets and getting some food, we were ready to take on Berne. Caty and her friend Aline then took us down the famously designed 6km shopping arcade with the imposing Marktgasse behind us.

1:45AM: We ended up by the Bear Pits, where we overlooked an adorable little village embedded within a park below where we were standing

]

2:00AM: We began a little hike up to the hill of Rosengarten to get a panoramic view of Berne at night

2:30AM: We descend the hill and walk back along the arcade to visit the former home of Albert Einstein

Albert Einstein’s former home just got served

2:45AM: They take us to this international hang-out spot, which is a bar-lounge in the setting of a school gym/auditorium. Pretty relaxed, chill place. Exactly what we needed.

3:30AM: Back to the train station, but not before checking out another cool hang-out spot.

4:00AM: We find a 24/7 bar/lounge/club called RockGarden that’s actually located within the train station. It literally was the most perfect place I could have ever asked for – great location, great hours, great drinks, amazing music, space to dance, and nonjudgmental atmosphere. I literally feel it couldn’t have come at a more ideal time or place.

How much I loved RockGarden

5:00AM: We say our goodbyes and board our train back to Geneva

7:00AM: We arrive at Geneva Airport, and hop on our flight back to NYC

Where do I begin…wow.

From Natasha to Caty, I could not have imagined a better end to our trip. Since its inception nearly 22 months ago, this blog has survived and thrived on the kindness of strangers who hail from all around the world. The last 20 hours in Switzerland — let alone the past week in Iran — have proven to us that there exists an inherent goodness in people you meet regardless of background, ethnicity, nationality, creed, or religion. You just have to wear that same kind of energy on your sleeve and these amazing souls will find you. And once that happens, countless, magical international adventures like these will await you.

- At time of posting in Bern / Belp , it was 46.4 °F -

Humidity: 75% | Wind Speed: 6km/hr | Cloud Cover: few clouds