Leaving behind the festivities of Pamplona, we boarded the 11am Alta direct bus bound for San Sebastián. Our journey was quick, and within 2 hours from Pamplona, we found ourselves walking through the coastal paradise of the Basque Country.
Checking in at Legazpi Doce Rooms & Suites, we dropped off our bags and hit the streets to make the most of our time here in this city of natural beauty and architectural grandeur, all walkable from our lodging . . .
Victoria Eugenia Antzokia – Our closest stop, this elegant theater by the river stands as one of the city’s most iconic cultural landmarks. Its ornate façade hints at the performances it has hosted over the years.
Donostia-San Sebastián City Hall – Located by the sea, this former casino is a testament to the city’s aristocratic past. Its position near Alderdi Eder Gardens makes for a picturesque stroll.
Kursaal – A modern architectural marvel by Rafael Moneo, this glass cube structure serves as both a convention center and concert hall. Its striking contrast to the city’s classical architecture is hard to miss.
Constitución Plaza — The center of old town and where both bullfighting and public executions took place. The numbers above each one of the balcony windows facing the square mark the bullring boxes from which anyone could watch the bullfight.
San Vicente Church – The oldest church in San Sebastián, with its Gothic architecture and serene, dark interior, offers a quiet respite from the bustling city.
San Telmo Museum – A must-see if you’re into Basque cultural artifacts and art.
Koruko Andre Mariaren Basilika (Basilica of Saint Mary of the Chorus) – This ornate Baroque church with its elaborate façade stands proudly in the heart of the old town.
The basilica faces down Calle Mayor towards the cathedral:
Motako Gaztelua – The fortress atop Monte Urgull remains a sight that might be worth the 20 minute hike uphill.
Even without entering, the walk around Monte Urgull beginning from the Aquarium offers panoramic views of the city and sea.
Hiking back down behind the city is also photogenic:
Cathedral of the Good Shepherd of San Sebastián – This neo-Gothic structure stands as the largest church in San Sebastián. Its towering spires and intricate details are awe-inspiring.
Beach of La Concha – Possibly San Sebastián’s most famous beach, its crescent shape and golden sands are framed by the blue of the Cantabrian Sea. A walk along the Paseo de La Concha is essential.
Ondarreta Beach – Just west of La Concha, this quieter beach (9 o’clock position in the photo below) offers a more laid-back experience with stunning views of Santa Clara Island.
After our 2 hour walking tour, we kicked back for a few drinks outdoors . . .
. . . before our . . .
Culinary Pilgrimage
No visit to San Sebastián would be complete without indulging in its legendary food scene. Over the next few days, we’ll be dining at some of the city’s most renowned establishments:
- Sirimiri Gastroleku, known for its duck:
- Ganbara, known for its mushroom and egg yolk pinxto:
- Borda Berri
- Gandarias, known for its T-bone pinxto, which was so small we didn’t even get a photo of it
- La Cuchara de San Telmo, known for its style of foie gras pinxto:
- Txuleta, known for its steak pintxo:
- La Viña, known for having invented the original Basque Cheesecake in 1988 and regarded still as the best OG Basque Cheesecake in the world.
- Bar Nestor, known for its chop and Spanish tortilla:
- Amelia by Paulo Airaudo, known for its seafood and plenty of Michelin stars:
And yet, although they’re known for their seafood, the Wagyu steak with Australian truffle takes the cake:
And this is exactly how I’d like to end a meal:
After a whirlwind exploration of San Sebastián’s culinary treasures, we watch Yuhan quickly recovering from her role as the enabler in their first night out and we prepare for the next leg of our journey to Bilbao.
I know exactly what would cure Yuhan’s hangover:
- At time of posting in San Sebastián, it was 19 °C - Humidity: 92% | Wind Speed: 8km/hr | Cloud Cover: a bit of rain, a bit of sun, and lots of food
