After a long road trip across nearly the entire circumference of Northern Morocco, we reached our hotel by 2:00am local time earlier this morning at Hotel Melilla Puerto, trying our best to ignore all the kids trying to get in behind us due to a recent concert nearby by a Puerto Rican singer that was staying at the same hotel.
We then woke up later this morning to the quiet stirrings of a fascinating tiny city-state shaped by both Spanish and Moroccan influences. With only a few hours before Nishant’s evening flight, we packed in as much as we could.
Walking Tour of Melilla
Beginning at around 11am, we kicked things off with a short walk just 7 minutes from our hotel to Melilla la Vieja, the fortified old town.
The lower level leads you to a surprisingly calm beach, nestled beneath centuries-old walls.
Climbing the steps on the other side of the fort’s entrance brings you into the heart of the fort itself: cobbled paths, breezy overlooks, and views that make you wonder why more people don’t make it here.
We chased after Nishant’s group (who had headed out a few minutes earlier) to Cuevas del Conventico, a church leading to network of caves carved into the cliffside.
At designated times, you can enter a tunnel that leads you straight down to the sea. We missed the morning window, but Sandy was able to get us evening slots later in the day where peering down from the cliff was worth the detour.
From Cuevas del Conventico, we wandered around through Melilla la Vieja, a maze of fortress walls, narrow lanes, and sea views that would rival any coastal village.
Just around the bend, a modest lighthouse quietly offers panoramic views from its free-access summit.
A quick free climb, and you’re rewarded with free sweeping vistas of the Mediterranean and the Spanish/Moroccan borders
Climbing back down from the fort into the city center, we passed through Plaza de las Cuatro Culturas, a square dedicated to the harmonious coexistence of Christian, Muslim, Jewish, and Hindu communities.
From there we walked around the Plaza de España roundabout, the civic heart of Melilla framed by grand buildings including the old Banco de España:
In the center of the square lies Palacio de la Asamblea: Melilla’s city hall, its neoclassical design reflecting the city’s Spanish heritage.
Walking up towards the mouth of Juan Carlos I, Rey street, we gazed at Casa David J. Melul. one of the city’s most striking modernist buildings, a testament to Melilla’s eclectic architectural style.
Monumento a Enrique Nieto directly faces Casa David J. Melul:
Don’t miss Monumental Cinema Sport down the street: A charming relic of the past, blending classic Art Deco style with North African influences.
We then walked up the street passing by Edificio Tortosa, another example of Melilla’s modernist architecture:
Stopping for breakfast at Arábica café along Plaza Héroes de España, we parked by a pedestrian plaza dotted with shops, shaded benches, and people-watching opportunities.
The café faces Edificio de la Reconquista: continuous reminders that Melilla has one of the largest collections of modernist Spanish buildings outside of Barcelona.
Right by this area are a grid of small streets lined with shops and cafes (if they’re open before siesta).
After breakfast, we walked up by Sinagoga de Or Zaruah o Yamín Benarroch, a testament to Melilla’s once-thriving Jewish community, offering a glimpse into its religious and cultural life.
Then we stopped for a photo at Teatro Kursaal – Fernando Arrabal, an Art Deco gem named after the famous Spanish playwright Fernando Arrabal:
Finally we rounded out our walking tour at the end of Juan Carlos Reyes I street at Edificio de los Cristales, a unique glass-covered building that stands out among Melilla’s architectural variety and lies close by to Auditorium Carvajal.
We decided to stretch out our walk further up to Central Mosque of Melilla, which showcases the city’s shared Islamic heritage.
Turning back to our hotel, we then took a detour through Parque Hernández, a beautiful, leafy park that offers a peaceful escape from the bustling city.
After an afternoon taking a break from the heat, we said our goodbyes to Nishant leaving a day earlier to catch his onward flights for Tomorrowland (we’re seeing him tomorrow anyway), and had an early dinner back at the fort with my first time having shisa since the cancer at La Roca.
Melilla, with its layered identity and quiet charm, felt like a secret. And we were lucky enough to walk through it.
Departure from Melilla
The next morning, all 8 of us boarded our onward flights to mainland Spain, 4 of us taking the 8:45am flight to Madrid, and the other 4 taking the 10:15am flight to Malaga. Don’t rush getting here; they don’t open security checks before any flight to board until at most one hour before departure.
From there, Kenny and I continued on to Brussels to join Nishant and 25 other fellow monsooners for Tomorrowland!
- At time of posting in Melilla, it was 26 °C - Humidity: 62% | Wind Speed: 6km/hr | Cloud Cover: sunny and hot
