Deep into Wadi Do’an
From Shibam, we drove deeper into the Hadhramaut system, heading toward Wadi Do’an, a dramatic side valley that branches off the main wadi.
Because of the recent military takeover of the local Hadrhamaut government yesterday, we had to wait a bit at our checkpoints for armed guard swaps.
We also stopped for water and roadside goods along the way:
The landscape then became increasingly dramatic as we descended into the narrow gorge. This is the hometown of our guide Abdul Kareem.
Al-Hajjrain
Al-Hajjrain (or Al-Hajarayn), deep inside Wadi Do’an, is a village famous for its own towering mud-brick houses, often called the “secret Shibam.”
Its buildings cluster together as if they were growing from the valley floor.
Wadi Do’an remains more traditional than the main Hadhramaut valley. Fewer outsiders, less development pressure, and geographic isolation have preserved ways of life that disappeared elsewhere generations ago.
Sif Village
We drove further into Wadi Do’an toward Sif, a village where houses appear to have been built directly into and onto the cliff face, connected by natural and manmade staircases. From below, they seemed to sprout as if the desert rocks were its soil.
You can tell which houses belonged to wealthier families that do business with the Saudis:
My favorite was Sif’s literal white castle that rose high against the rock as if it were set against a grey, stormy sky.
The village seemed quiet during our midday visit, most residents resting during the hottest hours. We climbed some of the staircases, gaining perspective on how these communities adapted to extreme topography.
Abdul Kareem then surprised us with a little cake with our names on it as a token of appreciation for visiting his childhood home.
Next: Haid Al-Jazil!
- At time of posting in Wadi Doan, it was 21 °C - Humidity: 10% | Wind Speed: 48km/hr | Cloud Cover: clear and perfect
