Deep into Wadi Doan
From Shibam, we drove deeper into the Hadhramaut system, heading toward Wadi Doan, a dramatic side valley that branches off the main wadi.
Because of the recent military takeover of the local Hadrhamaut government yesterday, we had to wait a little longer at our checkpoints for armed guard swaps.
We stopped for water and roadside goods along the way:
The landscape became increasingly dramatic as we descended into the narrow gorge. This is the hometown of our guide Abdul Kareem.
Al-Hajjrain
Al-Hajjrain (or Al-Hajarayn), deep inside Wadi Doan, is a village famous for its own towering mud-brick houses, often called the “secret Shibam.”
Its buildings cluster together on the valley floor, protected by towering cliffs on either side.
Wadi Doan remains more traditional than the main Hadhramaut valley. Fewer outsiders, less development pressure, and geographic isolation have preserved ways of life that disappeared elsewhere generations ago.
Sif Village
We drove further into Wadi Doan toward Sif, a village where houses appear to have been built directly into and onto the cliff face, connected by natural and manmade staircases. From below, they seemed to defy gravity.
You can tell which houses belonged to wealthier families that do business with the Saudis:
My favorite was Sif’s literal white castle that rose high against the rock as if it were set against a grey, stormy sky.
The village seemed quiet during our midday visit, most residents resting during the hottest hours. We climbed some of the staircases, gaining perspective on how these communities adapted to extreme topography. From above, the buildings appeared to grow naturally from the rock.
Abdul Kareem then surprised us with a little cake with our names on it as a token of appreciation for visiting his childhood home.
Next: Haid Al-Jazil!
- At time of posting in Wadi Doan, it was 21 °C - Humidity: 10% | Wind Speed: 48km/hr | Cloud Cover: clear and perfect
