Why you should go to Iran II

May 19th, 2012 by Calvin Sun

In the same vein as my previous post to Why You Should Come With Us to Iran, here’s your second chance to “do epic shit.”

Although I won’t be coming along this time — maybe that’ll be a perk? (jerks!) — this is your chance to relive what I saw in Iran last month via our blog; let me know you’re interested and we’ll set it up for you. You know that I came back safe and sound, so you know this thing is legit. And you know this thing is epic.

That said, a reposting of “Why You Should Go to Iran”, but this time updated for this October:

 

Taken by Mahdi Kalhor – ‘Kalut’ in Lut Desert

 

We at The Monsoon Diaries have traveled to over 30 countries in the last 18 months, all while spending very little and keeping fulltime jobs, remaining as fulltime students, or both. We’ve been to beaten paths and off the beaten paths. We’ve survived war zones, falling trees, getting struck by lightning, top-secret Sri Lankan commando units, and clandestine North Korean government installations.

We have had over 20 travelers backpacking with us side-by-side around the world, and made hundreds of international friends that joined along for part of the adventure.

We’re the type of people that looks at a picture on Google Images, but instead of saying “this goes on my bucket list”, we say “I’m going there next month.”

We make dreams come true.

 

Khaju Bridge in Ishafan

 

So why should you come to Iran with us?

…Because this is the once-in-a-lifetime chance to do epic shit with your life.

 

Taken by Ali Majdfar – Lake of Taleghan Dam

 

If I haven’t been eloquent enough for you, then these formidable writers can be:

    • 3 Reasons to Travel While You’re Young - “[Responding with] ’Yeah, but…’ is pernicious. Because it makes it sound like we have the best of intentions when really we are just too scared to do what we should. It allows us to be cowards, while sounding noble.”
    • Touching the Burner - “Those that continue to experiment are rewarded with more experience. Those that think “I’m fine where I am” never do– their world stops growing, and they don’t truly understand why.”
    • Life Doesn’t Start Tomorrow - “Momentum comes from pushing, not from planning. Confidence comes from scars and risk, not from indecision.”

    But people read these articles all the time and say “You know what, I’ll do it!” and then forget to commit to anything 5 minutes later. So this time we’re not only going to inspire you to take a risk, we’re also going to give you the chance to put that inspiration into practice right here and right now. If you really mean it when you say “I’m gonna do it!” after reading our little ditty on “doing epic shit”, then do it. Travel with us.

    Keep reading.

     

    OK, I'M INTERESTED. WHAT'S THE ITINERARY?

    You know how much I prefer free, independent travel over guided tours any day. However, the only way to legally get inside Iran as an American is on an MFA-approved tour. This one is not only that, but it still provides us a lot of freedom and the “down and dirty” for the backpacker-at-heart. This itinerary will take us to all of the major sites in Tehran as well as the ancient capitals of Shiraz, and Esfahan. In addition to the ancient history this tour also offers lots of opportunities to interact with locals, and witness the visual reality of what is the Iranian Revolution.

    …and with our local guides we will be doing lots of hidden extras, not published on this itinerary, for obvious reasons.

    Deadline to get in your passport information (US/British Nationals): September 15th

    Deadline to get in your passport information (All other passports): September 22nd

    October 22nd (Mon). Tehran

    • Morning and afternoon arrival by flight
    • Free afternoon to walk around Tehran, get to know your group
    • Visit to the heart of Old Tehran to soak up he nighttime atmosphere, drink some local tea and people watch
    • Overnight in Parastoo Hotel (2 Star)

    23rd (Tues) .Tehran

    • Visit Saad Abad & Niavaran palaces, the last Palaces of the last Shah of Iran
    • Lunch at Darband hills
    • Shopping in the Tajrish Bazaar of Tehran, your guide will you haggle, should you wish to buy anything
    • Traditional Iranian dinner of kebabs at famous restaurant Naveed
    • Overnight in Parastoo Hotel

    24th (Wed). Tehran /Shiraz

    • Check out of hotel for morning flight to Shiraz
    • Check into Shiraz Hotel for a freshen-up
    • Drive to Zand Complex
    • Visit the gardens and mosque
    • Lunch in the city
    • Free walk around the ancient capital
    • Dinner at Shater Abbas a traditional Iranian restaurant
    • Overnight in Niayesh hotel (3 star historic hotel)

    25th (Thur). Shiraz – Yazd

    • Morning drive to Persepolis and Necropolis
    • Visit the world heritage site
    • Picnic lunch
    • Drive past local military base area, but no pictures
    • Private home for dinner
    • Overnight in Oasis hotel (2 star historic hotel)

    26th (Fri). Shiraz-Esfahan

    • Morning drive to Esfahan
    • Visit the Royal Square, another world heritage site
    • Visit the beautiful Safavid Chehelsetoon Palace
    • Lunch in the town
    • Sheikh Lotfollah mosque and Ali-qapoo palace.
    • Visit the Vank Christian Cathedral
    • Visit to Shah Mosque of Esfahan
    • Dinner of Chelo Kebab, a local speciality
    • Overnight at Dibai House (2 star)

    27th (Sat). Esfahan

    • Morning walk around Shahid Ashrafi Esfahani University, to speak to local and foreign students learning Persian.
    • Visit an Iranian home for a cookery lesson with a local family.
    • Sit down for a traditional lunch
    • Free afternoon
    • Evening visit to the 300 year old Abbasi Hotel hotel for traditional Iranian tea
    • Night time talk from a participant in the 1979 Revolution
    • Overnight at Dibai House (2 Star)

    28th (Sun). Esfahan-Tehran

    •  Morning flight to Tehran
    • Check in to hotel
    • Lunch in hotel
    • Visit Mausoleum of Ayatollah Khomeini
    • Visit the Revolutionary Martyrs Cementary
    • Drive through Tehran past ant-US propaganda and the US embassy (no photos)
    • Farewell meal at the Armenian Club. Armenians the main ethnic Christian minority in Iran.
    • Overnight in Parastoo Hotel

    29th (Mon). Tehran

    • Free morning to do last minute shopping
    • Departure by flight

     

     

    WHAT'S THE TOUR COMPANY THAT'S SPONSORING THIS?

    I’m helping organize this tour with the brilliant minds of U.K. and China-based Young Pioneer Tours (YPT) – this is the same tour company that got me in and out of North Korea safely and that got me in and out of Iran safely. – so I will vouch vociferously for their professionalism and reliability. And given that I usually avoid tours like a plague, then you know it’s legit if I speak well of YPT! We’re in extremely capable hands, ladies and gentlemen.

     

    HOW MUCH WILL IT COST?

    Although the list price you’d find for Americans is usually over $1000 USD for a week, we’ll be getting a “Monsoon Diaries” deal that’s significantly cheaper at $695 a person. And the more people who come, the cheaper it gets. That being said, I have to cap this at 15 people, so don’t take too long to decide.

    The only thing else you have to pay for during the trip are the flights to/from Iran, daily food expenses (about $10 USD/day), and souvenirs.

    In summary…

    Price includes:

    • Visa (invitation letter)
    • 7Nights Accommodation in mentioned hotel on TWIN sharing basis B/B
    • A/C comfortable coach with professional driver throughout trip
    • Iranian and Western English Speaking Guides
    • Entrance fees for all mentioned monuments
    • Portage at hotels and airport
    • Tehran/Shiraz domestic flights

     

    Price does not include:

    • Fee for issuing Visa ( at Iran embassy)
    • International air tickets
    • Tip of the guide and driver (we suggest about 5 Euro per day)
    • Any personal expenses & services not included in the above itinerary
    • Meals (around 7 Euro per day)

     

    HOW MUCH ARE FLIGHT TICKETS?
    That really depends on when you buy them. A round trip from NYC-Tehran is currently priced at around $1000-$1150 USD on Qatar Airways. I’ve flown Qatar Airways to & from India and it’s one of the world’s best airlines; it’s one of Skytrax’s five highest rated 5-star airlines in the world.

    Another option is an $800-$950 Turkish Airways (great 4-star airline) flight leaving and arriving at around the same times.

      

     

    AREN'T YOU WORRIED ABOUT GETTING JAILED IN IRAN?

    No. And here’s why:

    1. The Iranian Government and their intelligence department screens all visa applications. If they were to jail someone for being a “spy” on a 6-day tour, then they’re admitting to the world that they have ineffective intelligence.
    2. The foreigners who have been jailed are either people who have been conducting extensive NGO or business work for years, or hikers who wandered into the country without a visa. Never tourists.
    3. The amount of money, resources, and political fallout invested in jailing young American tourists on a 1 week guided tour in Iran is not worth it to the Iranian government.
    4. It simply won’t happen. American tourists on guided tours are now in Iran as we speak.
    5. I was just there.

     

    YOU'RE CRAZY.

    So are the 22 others who’ve been around the world with me. So is anyone who doesn’t want to lie on their deathbed one day and say “I could’ve lived a little more.”

     

    I'M SCARED.

    As was I on my first trip 2 years ago when I found myself alone at night in a random train station in Cairo. You have to start somewhere. And I’m going to echo one of Go’s previous entries: “the way you do one thing in life is the way you do everything.” Or as some famous inventor of a pretty popular computer/music player/cell phone once said, “stay foolish.”

     

    Let’s entertain the possibility that you’ll skip out on this trip. Then watch us as we come back safe and sound, share our stories, talk about how our lives have changed (which they always do when you do a trip like this) and show you all our photos. Whether or not you will realize it then, when you have your first child, when in your midlife crisis, or on your deathbed, you’re inevitably going to regret that you missed out on this epic once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. This could set the tone for the rest of your life.

    Don’t let this happen. Starting slowly never works. Nobody ever learned how to ride a bike by reading about it. You have to get on the damn thing! Do you think that to skydive you first have to look it up on wikipedia, or learn to fall off a table? No. You simply jumpSo those of you who want to travel, travel. 

    Imagine how easy traveling will seem to you after this. How much confidence you’ll gain in yourself.

     

    This could be the moment where you turn your life around and finally do some epic shit . The world won’t wait for you.

     

    “Momentum comes from pushing, not from planning. Confidence comes from scars and risk, not from indecision.”

    “Those that continue to experiment are rewarded with more experience. Those that think ‘I’m fine where I am” never do– their world stops growing, and they don’t truly understand why.’”

     

    Feeling inspired? However, unlike most self-help sites out there, we’re going to give you the chance to test that inspiration right now. If you feel that bit of awakening stirring within you is the real deal, then drop your sh-t and travel with us. It’s the only way to know what you’re made of.

     

    I AIN'T SCARED NO MORE. HOW DO I SIGN UP?

    If you’re an American, you need to fill out Iranian visa forms 20 minutes ago (i.e. NOW); it takes about 2 months to approve Americans into Iran. You must fill out visa forms even if you are undecided; you don’t have to pay anything at the moment and you can always back out later. So if you want even a CHANCE of coming, please contact me asap: CONTACT ME!

    If you’re not an American, you have until February 21st to figure stuff out.

    And I’ll rip out what’s left of your heartstrings with pictures of food from my last trip, or few more pictures (unless otherwise mentioned, these pictures were taken from the public domain, photographer Ali Majdfar, and an article in The Atlantic).

     

    Read the rest of this entry »

    The Unexpected Aloha

    May 10th, 2012 by Calvin Sun

     

    Sometimes we at The Monsoon Diaries surprise even ourselves with some unplanned, last minute trips. Until approximately 48 hours ago, I had no idea would be in Hawaii. And here I am in Honolulu for 4 days.

    To give this context: I just completed my second year of medical school. Sometimes there’s just no other way to celebrate.

     

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    6:30am flight from Newark

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    A Korean temple that went slightly over Hawaii’s building code height restrictions…so they had to chop a little off the top

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    The view outside my room

    I started off my day by visiting the famous Dole Plantation.

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    The Dole Plantation just got served

    Read the rest of this entry »

    - At time of posting in Honolulu, Honolulu International Airport, it was 78.8 °F -

    Humidity: 48% | Wind Speed: 13km/hr | Cloud Cover: few clouds

    You’re Going to Crave…Iran

    April 25th, 2012 by Calvin Sun

    Go Yang has inspired a trend I wish I was talented enough to emulate. But then again, I figure imitation is the best form of flattery.
     
    So you’re going to crave…Iran.
     
    Let the drooling begin.
     
    You’ll crave the hard to pronounce, harder to prepare but easy to eat Aab-goosht-e Lappeh.
      

    You’ll miss learning how to eat this for the very first time, patting yourself on the back for believing that you’ve just became so cultured.

    By Jade Shyu


    Step #1: Strain the soup from the jug into the bowl



    Step #2: Rip pita bread pieces and place them into soup



    Step #3: Eat your creation with a spoon until it’s gone


    Step #4: Mash up the lamb and bean with the pestle



    Step #5: Pour lamb-bean paste into the soup bowl


     

    Step #6: Dip pita bread into the paste. Eat until satisfied.

    Read the rest of this entry »

    How to Get into Trouble in Iran

    April 23rd, 2012 by Calvin Sun

    I had said in a previous entry how “normal” everything seemed when I was in Iran last week, but about a week since I’ve returned I’ve noted some exceptions. Of course, some of these are via word of mouth through our interpreter, but this is the closest I’m ever going to get short of actually living in country or getting arrested myself.

    Here’s a partial list of what we’ve learned:

    #1) Alcohol: Officially banned in the country. So we went ahead (thanks to some mutual friends and connections some people in our group made) and tried to see how far we could go:

    Mission accomplished?

    I’d say so.

    #2) Loiterting: They don’t want Americans wandering around alone in their country, especially at night. So we tried it out in Shiraz:

    Sneaking around like ninjas

    It didn’t last very long:

    Getting caught

    Questioned

    So we got taken in “for our own safety” and was escorted back to our hotel.

    #3) Sexuality: I wasn’t sure if this was overblown by our Western media but it’s true: Homosexuality is illegal and punishable by death in the country. According to our interpreter, it depends whether you’re caught in the act “on top or on the bottom.” If “on the bottom,” there is no punishment. But if you’re “on top” and it’s your first offense, you will get fined and lashes. However, a repeat offense will result in the death penalty.

    Read the rest of this entry »

    - At time of posting in New York City, Central Park, it was 50 °F -

    Humidity: 96% | Wind Speed: 9km/hr | Cloud Cover: overcast

    Magical Moments in Switzerland

    April 19th, 2012 by Calvin Sun

    One of the last moments of the trip

     

    After 5 hours in Frankfurt, we landed in Geneva, Switzerland where we had a whopping 20 hours to kill. Our options were:

    1. Stay in Geneva, meet a friend, and rest up before heading back home
    2. Head to Berne, meet a friend, and rest up before heading back home
    3. Stay in Geneva, meet a friend, head to Berne, meet another friend, and pretty much pull an all-nighter before heading back to Geneva to head back home.

    In true Monsooning style, we opted for #3: Go hard or go home, (or more appropriately, go hard and then go home). No matter how tired, underslept, or insomniac we were, we were going to do it all. It’s not everyday you get 20 hours in Switzerland as an included free layover.

     

    So this is what we did.

     

    5:30PM: We land in Geneva, Switzerland

    5:50PM: We drop off our bags in airport lockers and buy our tickets

    6:20PM: We take the commuter train from the airport to Switzerland (15 minutes)

     


    6:45PM: We get lost looking for a Tram heading to Rive. It starts to rain.

    7:00PM: We find a Tram heading to Rive. It starts to rain harder.

    7:15PM: At Rive, we run into my friend from college, Natasha. Because we were poorly underdressed for the rain, she took us into her car and drove us up to her home to meet her grandparents. And that wasn’t serendipitous enough, I find out right then and there that Natasha and her family are from Iran; more specifically, her grandfather is from Esfahan. While in the car, Natasha and I both glared at each other.

    A big WTF moment right here.

    The view from Natasha’s home

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    We meet her family


    7:45PM: We arrive at Natasha’s home and meet her grandparents. From there, magical moments started to happen; we exchanged photos and stories of our time there. We learned that Natasha’s grandfather was expelled from Iran shortly after the 1979 Revolution, most of it due to his Jewish roots. To this day he has been unable to return. Hearing that we had just visited his hometown of Esfahan greatly moved him, as it in turn we were deeply touched how he took us in as his own family.

    Photo Credit: Cynthia Koo

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    Natasha’s grandfather is kind of a big deal

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    Natasha and her grandparents

    He bestowed upon us flowers before we left


    9:15PM: We say our goodbyes

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    Geneva at night


    10:11PM: We hop on the train heading from Geneva to Berne ($52 USD a person!)

    10:15PM: We pass out on the train

    11:56PM: We arrive in Berne

    Read the rest of this entry »

    - At time of posting in Bern / Belp , it was 46.4 °F -

    Humidity: 75% | Wind Speed: 6km/hr | Cloud Cover: few clouds

    5 hours in Frankfurt

    April 19th, 2012 by Calvin Sun

     

    We had a 5 hour layover in Frankfurt after leaving Iran, which we made the most of despite being severely underslept. From the airport we took a 10 minute train ride (4 stops I believe) to the main area of Hauptwache.

     

    Scatter up to the top of the Galeria Mall next to the Hauptwache train station to get some great views of the city:

    From Hauptwache, head south towards the river, where you’ll pass by Frankfurt’s distinctive Römer square. It’s famous for its reconstruction of 6 old-school style buildings that was characteristic of Frankfurt before it was bombed out during World War II.

    Römer square just got served

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    Inside one of the churches by Römer square

    Keep heading south until you hit the River Main. Cross the bridge and let your heart flutter over the thousands of public displays of affections via literal “locks of love.” Each one is supposed to represent a real life star-crossed couple.

    Read the rest of this entry »

    - At time of posting in Frankfurt / M-Flughafen, it was 53.6 °F -

    Humidity: 62% | Wind Speed: 16km/hr | Cloud Cover: scattered clouds

    Our Free Day in Tehran

    April 14th, 2012 by Calvin Sun

     

    As Americans, you’re not allowed to wander around Iran alone. You’re supposed to be guarded by an MFA-approved tour agency at all times following a strict itinerary. But that was not the case today. In true Monsooning fashion, we decided to skirt the rules a bit and see how far we could push the rules.

    As our tour officially ended yesterday, we were able to sneak in an extra day in Iran. With all the graciousness and kindness in the world, the tour agency listed us technically “still part of a tour” while we were able to freely wander about Tehran on our own. And so we did.

     

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    Almost everything closes on Fridays

    …but not if you open up shop old-school style!

     

     

    We hit up a couple of shopping bazaars that only locals go to (not the standard touristy-bazaar that tour agencies take foreigners to), one of which took over an entire parking garage/ramp/building and was total crowded chaos. But this was also the best place to get things for cheap as we were paying local prices on the best day of the week to go shopping (Friday is their day off and therefore also the day when the local bazaars open up shop and sell at their lowest prices).  And I managed to get some things that I normally would have gotten for 40-50x the price had I shopped in countries that, erm, weren’t under intense sanctions.

     

    "The Secret Entrance"

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    People who love shopping

     

    Afterwards we met up with a few local Tehran-ian friends of Evan’s and Vahid, a mutual friend of mine I met through the AIESEC network, who all took us around a side of Tehran only locals know. This was the part of the trip I have been looking forward to all week:  There’s nothing like making new friends as your travel, and making the most out of the limited time you have together by creating the potential for a lifelong connection.

     

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    Whiskey Ghelyoon


    Read the rest of this entry »

    - At time of posting in Tehran-Mehrabad, it was 59 °F -

    Humidity: 77% | Wind Speed: n/a | Cloud Cover: few clouds

    Respect for the Dead and The Defaced U.S. Embassy

    April 14th, 2012 by Calvin Sun

       

     

    We approach the mauseoleum of Ayatollah Khomeini with caution. If there’s anything I learned when I visited the mauseoleum of Kim Il-Sung in North Korea, it’s that you do not fuck around when it comes to visiting the grave of the present country’s revered cult of personality. And if you’re of the nationality that this particular cult of personality railed against throughout most of his lifetime, you should take extra precaution in how you behave. Failure to do so may lead to an international incident.

    When I walked up to the armed security guards that were about to pat me down, and replied that I was an American when they asked where I came from, they took another look at me. And then they let me pass without a fuss: No patting me down, no checking in my iPhone, no asking what was in my pockets like they did with even the locals ahead of me.

    I may have looked confused because they immediately smiled at me and reassured me: “Please know that we respect Americans. You may go ahead.”

    I think that exchange enough speaks for itself.

     

    The Mausoleum of Ayatollah Khomeini

     

    Hours later, I’m in in the “Martyr’s Cemetery”. Miles and miles of graves crowd into the horizon; all of them belong to children, young adults, rarely anyone over the age of 25. All of them belong to those who fought in the Iraq-Iran war, a brutal conflict that recalled World War I trench-warfare and indiscriminate use of chemical weapons. The memories of the massacre still brings out mothers, fathers, brothers, sisters, cousins and friends, paying their respects by offering sweets and then offering us these sweets when their mourning is over. But then tomorrow comes and the mourning is never over.

    The Iranian reverence for sacrifice and martyrdom is apparent here.

     

     

    Then a quick visit to the national monument of Tehran, the Azadi Tower or translated as the “Freedom Arch.” It was once a memorial to the reigning Shah before the 1979 Revolution, but the name was understandably changed afterwards.

     

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    Iran just got served.

     

    Read the rest of this entry »

    - At time of posting in Tehran-Mehrabad, it was 64.4 °F -

    Humidity: 52% | Wind Speed: 26km/hr | Cloud Cover: few clouds

    The Revolutionary

    April 12th, 2012 by Calvin Sun

    He was a youth in 1979, toppling the statue of Reza Khan in defiance of the Shah. And as one of the many emerging activists of 1979 , he supported the historic regime change that led to the era of Ayatollah Khomeini. But before he was to bear witness to the events that would follow after the deposition of the Shah, he was thrown in jail for acts of civil disobedience. He was tortured. Branded with the mark of a true revolutionary, he suffered for his beliefs.

    Last night we sat in his house to listen to his stories. He instead took our interpreter aside and spoke to him. These stories never came.

    Our interpreter would tell us parts of these stories afterwards.

     

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    5 cabs stop in front of an undisclosed location in Esfahan to hear him speak

     

    It was the Iranian secret police that threw him in jail. It was the his fellow Iranians that tortured him for years.

    But it was also the Americans that would share the blame for a lifetime of nightmares, according to our interpreter. It was the Americans that blinded his right eye. It was the Americans that perforated his right eardrum, rendering him permanently deaf.  It was the Americans that crushed his testicles, turning him into a eunich for the rest of his life. And it was the Americans as guests in his home last night that compelled him to change his mind in telling us his stories face to face.

    He didn’t want us to be disrespected, says our interpreter.

     

    CDS_0118

     

    We must take everything we hear while we travel with a grain of salt. But I want to believe my interpreter when he says this man genuinely did not want to disrespect us. Although I want to be careful of naivete, at the same time I refuse to stumble into the notion that every man is inherently deceptive. I want to continue to trust in the kindness of strangers.

     

    The 1979 Revolution

     

    To give this context, we had thought we were going off the beaten path when we were invited to the home of our hotel receptionist for a home-cooked family dinner. Afterwards, when the receptionist offered for us to hear stories from his uncle about taking part in the revolution and his experiences in being tortured in an Iranian jail, we agreed to this rare opportunity. However, nobody was sure how it would be received. Some of us anticipated it would be a way to hear the other side’s story, others in my group thought it would be anti-American propaganda. But as we walked into his living room and when he discovered that half of our group were Americans, he decided he would only offer his hospitality and nothing more. Respecting us as his guests, he feared that his stories would offend us. He did not want to burden us with the guilt of what had been inflicted upon him. So he took our interpreter aside; it would be relayed to us in a way that the revolutionary felt he could not; he did not feel it was his place to disrespect us in his own home.

    We must realize that when it comes to travel, not everything goes according to plan. Then again, sometimes the very purpose of going off the beaten path is to have things not go according to plan.

     

     

    Although this goes without saying, more travelers forget this than not: the people you meet along the way should never be taken for granted. They have memories, they have stories, and they have emotions that are at the whim of the tumultuous circumstance. And to them your presence may mean more than another guest to entertain; to them you too can be a real person with beliefs and stories of your own. To me, he was more real than you can imagine; for all of us, this became more than taking a trip to another country and seeing pretty things.

    In the end I must appreciate the bigger picture: Here was a man who was nearly destroyed by the Americans. And here was a man 43 years later who would serve Americans tea in his home, who repeatedly told our guide to convey to us that he was grateful that we were there, who made his way around the room to offer all of us sweets, conflicted on whether he should tell us his stories and yet still signify to us with a straight face that he understood the difference between governments and people.

    He saw me as a person. I ask for nothing more.

    – Calvin

    —————————————


    Below is the another account written by fellow traveler and veteran Monsooner, Cynthia Koo:

    My first impression was that he was much shorter than I imagined him to be, and my second was that he reminded me of my grandfather.

    Read the rest of this entry »

    - At time of posting in Tehran-Mehrabad, it was 68 °F -

    Humidity: 37% | Wind Speed: 4km/hr | Cloud Cover: few clouds

    The Soul of ‘Half the World’

    April 11th, 2012 by Calvin Sun

     

    The next morning we made a bee line to Naqsh E Jahan Square, which the Persians are proud to call it the second largest square in the world, second only to Beijing’s Tianenmen Square (The truth, according to Wikipedia, is that this is the world’s 12th largest and Tianenmen Square is the 3rd largest).

          

    Naqsh E Jahan Square just got served

    Ranking aside, there is something breathtaking about walking into this square. It’s incredible serenity demands reflection. Iran’s relative lack of tourists prevents the square from becoming like Beijing’s ridiculously overcrowded Tianenmen Square, but its relative normalcy of being a home to numerous shops, bazaars, schooltrips and local businesses contrasts it with becoming like North Korea’s barren Kim Il-Sung Square. Therefore it strikes a perfect balance of both taking your breath away without being too ridiculously out of this world.

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    Curiosity for us foreigners

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    Female students wave hi to us

     

    To the south is the famously picturesque Imam Mosque, which architectural layout is unique to all the other mosques in the world. The challenge was to build a mosque in the South, but to also face Mecca, which isn’t south. Hence the Imam Mosque and its four-iwan style, which one iwan at the south, and the main one facing Mecca. Seeing it speaks for itself.

     

    Panorama of the square (click to enlarge)

    Read the rest of this entry »

    - At time of posting in Esfahan, it was 78.8 °F -

    Humidity: 14% | Wind Speed: 4km/hr | Cloud Cover: broken clouds