Our road trip takes on a new tempo as we head south from Ávila toward the port city of Algeciras, marking the final leg of our journey across mainland Spain.
We began the morning in Ávila, saying goodbye to Kane, David, and Raubern as they continued on to Madrid. As we set off on our long drive south, I called FRS Ferry Services to move our original 5pm tickets to 8pm. We didn’t want to rush, especially since Donna’s flight had also been delayed five hours due to having to turn around, land, and go through repairs after a galley fire (everyone’s okay).
3 hours in, we stopped for breakfast and coffee at Zeri’s Café in Cáceres and grabbed a table outside to stretch our legs.
Roughly 2 hours later, about 5 hours into the drive, we rolled into Seville. Our group split up: one car visited the Seville Cathedral to see Christopher Columbus’ remains, another checked out the Setas de Sevilla, and the rest of us wandered the city center.
2 more hours south, we finally reached Algeciras, repeating the exact route I took 14 years ago. We returned our rentals at Enterprise’s office near the port, which had a secure key drop.
There wasn’t space in their designated lot, so we parked beside some Enterprise vans, took photos of the cars and plates, and emailed them just in case—so they wouldn’t think we’d run off with their vehicles.
Inside the terminal’s second floor waiting area, we met up with longtime monsooners Donna and Mihaela, who had just landed nearby; Donna at Malaga and Mihaela at Gilbraltar. Thanks to prior monsooning experience, Donna had already scanned our QR codes and picked up everyone’s ferry tickets from the FRS office, saving us time and keeping the group on track.
Algeciras to Ceuta
At 7:45pm, we boarded the FRS ferry to Ceuta, a short but symbolic crossing from continental Europe to the Spanish enclave perched on the edge of North Africa. I did this same trip 14 years ago, and now I was doing it again, this time with a full and bigger crew.
The ferry had a small café and a smoker-friendly viewing deck.
It’s a Yacht Week Sardinia reunion, this time headed for Africa.
Evening Walk Through Ceuta
We docked in Ceuta right at 9pm.
The port felt immediately different from where we boarded. Gone were the steely blue and white; now we were walking amidst sun-faded walls and palm trees at a slower pace.
About half the group decided to enjoy the African sea breeze with the 21 minute walk to our hotel, Oh Nice Ulises, while others sent luggage ahead by cab.
Since we had most of the hotel booked, I opted for the offer of the Presidential Suite for the same price:
Here’s the view from the balcony:
Ceuta was already starting to feel like exactly what we needed.
For dinner, we walked around the corner to a casual BBQ spot and, once again, accidentally over-ordered… times two.
Over dinner, we sat beneath Ceuta’s famous House of Dragons—rooftop sculptures guarding the city from above.
We turned in late, setting alarms for 9am and getting ready for a full day of exploring tomorrow.
Exploring Ceuta’s Rich History
With only a day to explore, we set out at 10am to cover as much ground as possible. Ceuta’s unique blend of cultures and fortifications makes it feel like a city pulled from multiple worlds.
We started close by at Casa de los Dragones: A grand building featuring dragon sculptures that seem to guard the façade—a striking example of early 20th-century architecture.
Next door was Iglesia De San Francisco: A small but charming church nestled within the bustling city streets.
I have questions here:
Then after breakfast, we hid from the sun at the Military Museum of the Legion, tucked inside a former fortress. Entry is free, and photography is allowed—just be respectful of the guards on duty.
The museum honors Spain’s famed Foreign Legion with exhibits ranging from uniforms and medals to battle maps and war relics, as well as a Nishant giving us a bonus primer of the history of Ceuta.
From the museum, we walked along the path that overlooks Ceuta’s gorgeous Spanish tourist-filled Ribera:
We then weaved into the Santuario de Santa María de África: A beautiful sanctuary dedicated to the patron saint of Ceuta, known for its rich history and serene atmosphere.
Nearby is the Cathedral of the Assumption of Ceuta: Built on the site of a former mosque, the cathedral’s architectural blend reflects the city’s multicultural history.
The Monumento a los caídos en la ocupación de África (aka a monument to those who participated in colonizing and occupying Africa) in the center of Plaza Africa:
We then walked straight up to the Murallas Reales, impressive 16th-century defensive walls that once protected the city from invasions. They look as formidable as ever.
They don’t make it obvious but you can freely walk inside the fort:
Climb up to the ramparts for the views of Ceuta:
We then climbed back down for an unexpectedly long 2-3 hour lunch at Restaurante Goichu, where once again, we ordered too much:
By then it was already almost 5pm, so the group decided to hike up the 2km, 40 minute walk up Monte Hacho, one of Ceuta’s highest points, offering panoramic views of both the city and the Strait of Gibraltar. It’s believed by some to be one of the Pillars of Hercules. You can only access it with pre-authorization by the Spain Department of Defense.
If you’re taking the hike like everyone else in my group did, see if you can add in: Faro Punta Almina and the easternmost point of Ceuta where the lighthouse there offer dramatic views of the Mediterranean Sea.
Fuerte Desnarigado: Unfortunately, access is also restricted without special permission, but its imposing presence is still worth admiring from afar.
Back at sea level, there’s Baños Árabes de Ceuta: These Arab Baths that open every evening at 6pm date back to the 12th century, offering a glimpse into the region’s Moorish past.
Well, it says it opens every 6pm, but when you get there they tell folks like Sandy to go to the tourist office by Murallas Reales to get the key, only for the tourist office there to tell her it’s still under renovations and not ready to be opened.
But you can still see it clearly from the street:
If time permits, you can take a ‘recorrido turistico’ taxi tour around Ceuta that includes a visit to Fuerte de Aranguren, lasting between 1 and 2 hours for a fixed fee of €38.40. This tour promises to cover the highlights of Ceuta with the convenience of a knowledgeable guide.
Monolith Llano Amarillo – Nishant hiked here himself after everyone else turned back. This was built to commemorate the July 17th, 1936 uprising across Spanish Morocco.
Calling it a day, all of us reconvened at the Ribera to enjoy the sunset and make friends with the folks around us.
Murallas Meriníes: The next morning visited the remants of the ancient Merinid walls that once protected Ceuta, an impressive feat of medieval engineering, on our way out towards the border to begin our long drive to Melilla.
As our time in Ceuta comes to a close, we reflect on the blend of cultures, history, and architectural beauty this small but fascinating city offers. Onward to the next leg of our journey: Melilla!
- At time of posting in Ceuta, it was 23 °C - Humidity: 78% | Wind Speed: 24km/hr | Cloud Cover: sunny and hot
