From Philadelphia Through The Deserts Of Jordan
This morning we explored the handful of sights in what was formerly known as the ancient city of Philadelphia, which housed one of the largest public forums and theaters of the Roman Empire. Now Philadelphia has become downtown Amman, where the sights (King...
Understanding a Moment In Amman
We are the only two foreigners. Scratch that -- the only two Asians in a sea of local Jordanians and other Arabians. In a balcony cafe awash with the perfumed smoke of nargile, we overlook the quiet chaos of downtown Amman. For a moment, everything seems...
The Palestinian Refugee Camps
It's semantics. In India, poorer neighborhoods where Indians live are called "slums." In Lebanon, poorer neighborhoods where Palestinians live are called "refugee camps." Yet I saw no evidence of what the media conjures up for us: there we no tents in the...
From Beirut To The Deserts Of Amman
Some leftover from our last hours in Beirut: After an uneventful flight from Beirut to Amman, and the standard passport etiquette (20 JOD for a visa on arriva, which is $28.71 USD!), we decided to save some money by taking the airport shuttle (3...
Beirut, Baalbek, And Hezbollah
Beirut: A cosmopolitan city policed by carbine-armed soldiers, where Ferraris and BMWs park next to armored tanks, and where glass-paned high-end boutique shops neighbor derelict husks of concrete bombed out by a 10 year old conflict. There are military...
Airport FUN
Now that I'm in Lebanon, I can tell you about entering. Upon arriving in Beirut, I was asked to fill out the visa information. Not knowing the address of the hotel, (Calvin had made the reservations and was coming in on a later flight) I left that part blank. Passport...
Entering Lebanon
"Sir, have you ever visited Israel?" "Never." "OK, go." I know this routine. I've heard about it ever since I started traveling. The rule is that if you ever been to Israel and show evidence of it with a stamp in your passport, you're assumed to believe that Israel is...
My Favorite Person In Istanbul
Meet Ahmet! He's 7 months old and just too cute. His mother (in the background) rigged up a camera battery charger for me from another type of charger. Brilliant! And amazing in a touristy area where most people will just try to sell you a charger for way too...